SITUATED on the border between west and south Belfast, the Balmoral Hotel is a place I'm more than familiar with. My brother was married there, as were several of my friends; I've been to Christenings and even funeral wakes in the thick-carpeted rooms in a hotel that is a reassuring feature on the Blacks Road.
I've also had lunch with friends in the Lady Anne Grill, known for top-notch steaks and large portions. That's what the Balmoral was always known for being – a family friendly, homely cooking type of hotel, but as anyone in the hospitality industry will tell you, as the market gets more competitive and standards change, so must the service provided by hotels.
The Fitzwilliam and Merchant in Belfast and the Slieve Donard in Newcastle, to name but a few, all have fine-dining restaurants. So it was a great delight when word reached me that the Balmoral was considerably upping its game with Seasons, an elevated dining experience headed up by a pretty impressive chef.
Having worked for big hitters such as Paul Rankin and Michael Deane, more recently Dave O'Callaghan graced the kitchen of the excellent Wine and Brine in Moira. He's quite the catch for the Balmoral and so expectations were high.
I made a decision not to let nostalgia cloud my judgment as I headed out on a cold wet night for some fine dining, west-Belfast style – and that doesn't mean I drank a barrack buster of cider before I left the house: we're better than that so shame on any of you who stereotype my people!
Instead I ordered a really decent bottle of Polero, Sauvignon Blanc and settled down to the small but perfectly formed menu. Some breads were sent, and I should point out that they'll do themselves out of business if they don't start charging more for what were some pretty impressive homebaked breads. A stout bread with a black treacle taste and a lovely buttery brioche, almost cake-like in texture meant I had to stop myself or else I'd have had just bread and wine for dinner.
The menu had around six starters and six mains. I can see what Dave O'Callaghan is thinking – do a small selection of dishes well rather than a phone book of dishes badly and build it up gradually.
Starters were a ham terrine and a cured salmon. I was torn between the terrine and artichoke soup but the table next to us had the ham and I was suffering from food envy. The chef sent out a small amuse bouche of soup while we were waiting – creamy, comforting and heavily seasoned, the way I like it.
The salmon came with a zesty lemon puree and charred cucumber; it was fresh and light, the fish of a seriously high quality. The ham terrine with charred apple and crispy crackling was salty and rich and the little pieces of apple cutting through the deep richness of the ham. I would have preferred the terrine served at room temperature rather than cold from the fridge, though.
The mains included an interesting-sounding hake and a butternut squash and sage risotto. But comfort was a must on a horrible night and so it was the short rib and venison.
The venison came with the loin cooked pink and blushing, as it should be, and a small pie with some slow-cooked rich meat braised in a dark red wine, a wintery braised red cabbage and crispy parsnip for texture. It was all perfectly seasoned and a satisfying portion, the waiter – who I should have mentioned earlier as he was both informed and friendly – recommended some buttered baby potatoes as a side but unless you've the appetite of bricklayer they weren't needed.
Now to the short rib. You have to know what you're getting with this: it has a blanket of fat, which is why it tastes so good and is cooked on the bone for forever and a day; this means the sweet dark meat barely even requires any chewing. It comes with a burnt onion puree, sweet and dark and some crispy shallots for texture.
Treat yourself – honestly, you deserve it.
I should have been signed into rehab at this stage but instead I had a creme brulee. It was full of flavour and fresh little flakes of vanilla dotted through the custard, which was perfect but the sugar topping was a little too thick and so hadn't all caramelised – a tiny teething problem.
Dave O'Callaghan is a talented chef with great pedigree. He's put together a fabulous menu and the revamped restaurant would rival any city centre eaterie in terms of service and style. It's also easily accessible so you don't have to take part in a Belfast version of The Hunger Games to get a taxi at the end of the night.
THE BILL
Breads £2
Terrine £6
Salmon £6
Venison £15
Short rib £14.50
Side £3.50
Creme brulee £6
Polero Sauv Blanc £18.95
Total £71.45
Seasons at the Balmoral Hotel, Blacks Road,Dunmurrry, BT10 0ND 028 9030 1234
