Stitch & Weave,
40 Ebrington Square,
Derry,
BT47 6FA
028 7116 6556
thestitchandweave.com
Stitch & Weave hasn’t so much hit the ground running as crashed into the Earth like a meteor hurtling from space.
It’s only been open a fortnight, and has already emerged as one of Derry’s prime go-to venues. Fully booked the first weekend, and the second, too, from the looks of things. My wife, daughter, brother, and I had our table booked for 5.45pm on Friday, and it was already heaving. At least one couple, who had arrived on-spec while we were waiting for our table, was turned away, empty-stomached.
Tempting though the starters looked, we headed straight for the mains. Our daughter’s mini roast came with plenty of gravy – just the way she likes it. The bed of mash was smooth and creamy, while the chicken, chargrilled, I think, rather than roast, was tender and flavoursome.
- Eating Out: Solo at Campsie is in a good location but they should illuminate the sign...Opens in new window
- Where the food is good enough to risk heaven’s wrath - Eating out at Artis by Phelim O’Hagan in DerryOpens in new window
- Curb your cocktail chipolata cravings - Eating out at Stix & Stones meat wagonOpens in new window
My brother went for his usual burger. I enjoyed the taste he granted me. The meat was juicy and well-seasoned and the whole thing avoided the trap so many restaurants fall into of loading the barmcake with too many relishes and additions. The bacon jam, sweet and salty, along with the tomato and the crunch of rocket, was more than enough to enhance the burger.
The presentation of the bourguignon came as a bit of a surprise. The beef was in one cut, rather than the chunks we’d been expecting. This meant that the lardons and the button mushrooms were a bit lost, along with some of the potential richness of the dish. Still good, though, with the beef having plenty of flavour, and melting in the mouth.
It’s been done out tastefully and thoughtfully and, though I found the tables a little too crowded together, this does give the place life and bustle. And it offers the full package, spread over three floors, with a top floor function room and a downstairs bar, giving the sense of a destination rather than a stopping-off point
Now, I had the ham shank. It’s rare that I find any portion too big, but this was almost overwhelming – I dread to think of the size of the pig it came from – to the point where I couldn’t finish it. (I wasn’t the only one; I saw two people leaving with doggy bags). It tasted great, though. A touch salty, perhaps, but well cooked, and lifted by the lovely, sweet honey glaze. Enhanced, also, by the very good root vegetables. You find a lot of places undercook parsnips, in particular, but these were great, and really added to the dish.
The desserts were a little bit of a mixed bag. My brother loved his apple and berry crumble, but I thought it lacked any texture. The pastry was soft, and the crumble had no crunch. The filling was good though, and the crème anglaise lovely and smooth.
I chose the assiette. This was big enough to share, which was just as well, as my daughter couldn’t stop eating the cheesecake. I don’t blame her – sweet and creamy, with a lovely thickness and a nice biscuit base. Great date pudding – moist and moreish – and a nice brownie. The chocolate tart was the best, however. While it was hard to detect any coconut, the chocolate itself was delicious – rich, dark, and deep, a dessert requiring and deserving time to enjoy.
Even before visiting, it was easy to imagine Stitch & Weave being a hit. The location is fantastic, in the north-west corner of Ebrington Square, overlooking the river, and within easy reach of the Peace Bridge; access from both sides of the river is a doddle.
It’s been done out tastefully and thoughtfully and, though I found the tables a little too crowded together, this does give the place life and bustle. And it offers the full package, spread over three floors, with a top floor function room and a downstairs bar, giving the sense of a destination rather than a stopping-off point.
Location apart, there’s nothing brilliant about it, but everything is at least good, and most things very good, so I don’t imagine the hectic pace at which Stitch & Weave set off slowing any time soon.
The bill
Beef burger, cheddar, smoked bacon jam, pickled onion ring, tomato, wild rocket - £17.95
Beef bourguignon, button mushrooms, bacon lardons, pomme purée, charred scallion, red wine reduction - £19.50
Honey glazed ham shank, roast shallot purée, root vegetables, mustard and white wine sauce - £18.95
Child’s mini roast chicken - £9.00
Mashed potato; garlic greens; onion rings – 3 x £4.00 - £12.00
Assiette - £10.00
Child’s chocolate chip cookie, vanilla ice cream - £4.75
Caramelised apple and berry crumble, crème anglaise, honeycomb ice cream - £6.50
Vegan-friendly chocolate and coconut tart, berries, raspberry sorbet - £6.50
