Railway Tavern
Station Road
Figary
Fahan
Co Donegal
+353 74 936 0137
I booked the table on Monday. By the time it came round to going, on Friday evening, I wasn’t sure we’d make it. The weather was improving, but it was cold enough for there to be at least the suggestion of ice on the roads, so, being a nervous driver at the best of times, I nearly postponed.
My wife, who learned to drive on snow-covered back roads in darkest Tyrone, persuaded me to go ahead, although my brother, unsure of himself in icy conditions, stayed home with a pastie and the West Ham v Villa game.
So, it was just the three of us making the drive to Fahan. And I’m delighted we did, not just because we had such a good time, but because the Railway Tavern shines so brightly on a night like this.
It lies close to the edge of the Swilly, down a rough track, tucked away behind a boat maintenance yard serving the needs of the nearby marina. The waters of the lough merged into the black night, sensed rather than seen, and we slipped and slid from the car to the door of the tavern across the stony, pitted driveway.
It felt like we were entering a refuge for lost and weary travellers, and we found inside a warm and friendly welcome to a bustling room, full of families, couples, and at least one group celebrating a birthday.
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At the centre of the room, dividing, heating, and lending drama to the space is the open fire grill, housed in an old steam engine fire box, from which flames regularly rise, lighting the restaurant with a deep orange, managed by the poor chef, probably the only person there keen to get outside into the cold.
We were there in time for the early bird menu, which is excellent value, but my eyes were taken by the sugar pit pork chop on the evening menu, and I wasted no time ordering that. My daughter, meanwhile, was unable to resist the cheesy garlic bread, which arrived seconds before the burger she ordered for her main.
My daughter gave the meal 10 stars out of five... the Railway Tavern is such a perfect antidote to dismal, dark, cold nights, doctors should prescribe it
Her starter was very impressive – lovely, lightly toasted bread laden with cheese – while her burger showed the quality of the place. She likes her burgers plain, not smothered in sauces or leaves, which can so often hide poor meat. None of that here. The burger was full of flavour and her chips were so good that my wife and I, regretting not getting any for ourselves, ordered a dish of them, not caring how greedy we looked adding a fourth side.
My wife’s steak was delicious: well-seasoned, perfectly pink and with a powerful charcoal flavour complementing the deep flavour of the meat.
Gosh, though, nothing could beat my pork chop. It was big, thick, juicy, with a perfect balance of sweet and salty, sitting on a bed of creamy mash, generously coated by a delicious mustard sauce. Just wonderful.
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And the side dishes were very impressive – crispy cabbage adding a savouriness and texture, and properly made onion rings, with the batter staying crunchy and light for the duration of the meal.
My daughter insisted I had the profiteroles, although I was sorely tempted by the cheesecake. The choux pastry was light and crisp, coated in deep, dark chocolate, and the toasted hazelnut added a lovely, sweet, earthy flavour.
There weren’t enough of them, mind, and I’d have liked more sauce on the sticky toffee pudding, although the cake itself was delicious, managing to be simultaneously light and dense. We took a portion of roulade home for my brother. This, too, was very good - crunchy, sweet, creamy and sharp.
My daughter gave the meal 10 stars out of five. A touch generous, but I can see her point. I’m sure the Railway Tavern is great at any time of year, but it’s such a perfect antidote to dismal, dark, cold nights, doctors should prescribe it. The service, the food, the atmosphere, the décor: it’s the whole package.
The bill
Child’s cheesy garlic bread - €3.75
Child’s burger, fries - €7.95
Sugar pit pork chop - €19.95
Sirloin steak - €30.95
Crispy cabbage, onion rings – with mains
Mash - €4.50
Chips - €4.50
Hazelnut profiteroles - €8.50
Sticky toffee pudding - €8.50
Child’s ice cream - €4.00
Raspberry and white chocolate roulade - €8.50
Coca-Cola x 2 - €6.60
Total: €107.70
