Food & Drink

‘Opening a pop-up is the best way to start a business’: Belfast food stalls going their own way amid rising costs

Sophie Clarke chats to the owners of Smash Bros and The Wing Society, Tristan Brennan and Shay Bannon, and Feast’s Melissa McCabe about the pro and cons of running a food stall

Food vendors and brothers Shay and Tristan Brennan in the Common Market, Belfast. PICTURE: JORDAN TREANOR
Food vendors and brothers Shay and Tristan Brennan in the Common Market, Belfast. PICTURE: JORDAN TREANOR

Belfast’s street food scene has grown rapidly with more vendors opting to operate as a stall or pop up rather than investing in a bricks and mortar site.

Tristan Brennan and Shay Bannon joint owners of Smash Bros and The Wing Society have been part of this vibrant development.

Currently in Belfast’s bustling Common Market the pair agree that opening a stall “was the best decision they ever made” adding it is “the best way to start a business”.

“It’s a lot less in terms of opening costs,” Shay tells The Irish News.

Food vendors and brothers Shay and Tristan Brennan in the Common Market, Belfast. PICTURE: JORDAN TREANOR
Food vendors and brothers Shay and Tristan Brennan in Common Market, Belfast. PICTURE: JORDAN TREANOR

“And although it was still scary and stressful I feel like for us it was the best decision - especially because we were just starting out. In my opinion, it’s definitely the best way for small businesses to get started.”

The duo launched Smash Bros in 2022, specialising in American-style smash burgers which have seen the business soar in popularity.

“I was working for a drinks company, and I wasn’t really enjoying it, and I was looking to get back into hospitality,” Shay describes.

Shay Brennan, Smash Bros in Common Market, Belfast. PICTURE: JORDAN TREANOR
Shay Brennan, Smash Bros in Common Market, Belfast. PICTURE: JORDAN TREANOR

“And then the opportunity to open a stall at Common Market came up and initially I was quite anxious because we hadn’t owned or started a business before.

“But then I was in Spain for my dad’s wedding had a few drinks and thought – why not? Let’s do it. And within about three weeks we got the brand and menu together and we opened.

“Smash Bros was a drunken idea – but it’s the best drunken idea I’ve ever had,” he jokes.

Due to the increasing demand and popularity of the business the duo decided to open a second stall, launching The Wing Society in May last year.

Tristan Brennan from the Wing Society in The Common Market, Belfast. PICTURE: JORDAN TREANOR
Tristan Brennan from the Wing Society in The Common Market, Belfast. PICTURE: JORDAN TREANOR

“Whenever Hey Chick! moved out of Common Market I went straight to Shay and went ‘we’re taking it – I need a chicken shop – I’m sick of beef burgers’, I needed something else,” laughs Tristan.

“And it’s just been chaos ever since.

“Smash Bros took about eight months to get where it is – The Wing Society took eight days. As soon as we opened, we just had to start adapting to try and do more.”

Since opening Smash Bros and The Wing Society have racked up more than 40,000 followers on social media with people travelling from all over to try Shay and Tristan’s food - including Matt Binge who fronts the viral Food Review Club page on TikTok.

The pair believe a big part of their success is down to Common Market.

“Common Market is great – it’s an absolute monster that just doesn’t stop,” Shay describes.

“It’s an amazing place and has given so many people an opportunity to start their own businesses.

Wing society platter order. PICTURE: JORDAN TREANOR
Wing society platter order. PICTURE: JORDAN TREANOR

“And there’s a real sense of community in here as well. We’re mates with all the other vendors and we’re able to share and help each other when needed – it’s a great environment.

“There’s no competition or animosity; everyone wants everyone to be busy.”

Similarly, Camlough chef Melissa McCabe first made a name for herself after opening her own food truck, Feast, in 2022.

Specialising in dishes which showcase the high quality of Northern Ireland produce Melissa’s unique style of cooking saw her selected to compete on the 2024 series of The Great British Menu.

Melissa McCabe from Feast
Melissa McCabe from Feast

“It’s a great way to network, meet suppliers and introduce more people to Feast,” she explains.

“If you’re in different towns, cities and doing different gigs with the food truck - it’s a very social way of working.”

Melissa McCabe from Feast
Melissa McCabe from Feast

Like Shay and Tristan, she believes running a pop up is a great way to build up a business.

“Being mobile was pretty amazing – I loved it,” she says.

“My food truck was two meters long, had two little Japanese barbeques and a small fryer and an open hatch so it was very interactive which is great for building up rapport and a reputation for yourself.

“So if you’re young and starting out a food truck is a very good stepping stone.”

However, in September last year, alongside business partner Roisin McCaffrey, Melissa transformed Feast into bricks and mortar, opening a restaurant located in the picturesque village of Rostrevor in Co Down.

“Roisin ran her own food van called RetRo’s Grilled Cheese and we would’ve helped each other out,” she explains.

“And one day we were driving my trailer down Bridge Street and she noticed a to let sign in the window of this shop and it was in a really good location.

“And before we knew it imagination took over, possibilities took over and the dream of always wanting bricks and mortar just took over.”

Since opening just four months ago Feast has already received a McKenna’s guide award and also been visited by the Food Review Club which described the food as “cooking on the holiest and highest level” scoring a rare 10 out of 10.

“We’re having a great time in the restaurant, I can’t wait to see what it turns into,” Melissa enthuses.

“We opened the doors at the end of September, and we’ve had a great four months with lots of returning happy faces.

“And this is only the start, we have many exciting plans for the rest of the year so we’re just going to keep getting better, developing the team and just doing what we love to do.”

She adds that although she adored her time on the food truck the restaurant provides a “much easier way of working.”

“I have to say I absolutely love coming to work and the kitchen sink is already there,” she says.

“I’m not looking for a generator, the fridges are there, everything gets delivered to one place.

“Food trucks are gruelling, people think you just pull up, open the hatch and that’s you but setting up every day and taking it down every night is a job in itself.”

Melissa McCabe from Feast
Melissa McCabe from Feast

Like Melissa although Shay and Tristan believe more food stalls will continue to pop up in Belfast their ultimate goal is to expand and eventually open their own restaurant.

“We want ten Smash Bros and ten Wing Society’s and to retire in Mexico,” jokes Tristan.

“But in all seriousness, we definitely want a shop for each unit and a facility where we could run takeaways but it has to be right.

“The brands in Common Market are great and it is a bit scary to think about stepping outside of it so we want to make sure the venue we take on is the right one.”