Across the creek from the bright lights and skyscrapers of Dubai, I feel like I’m another world away in a quiet and still traditional Emirati-style house.
People come from all over the globe to climb the world’s tallest building, see the heaviest gold ring or to try and get their hands on the viral Dubai chocolate bar made famous on TikTok.
But there is another side of Dubai, rich with Emirati traditions, and dare I say it, even accessible on a budget.
From a dull and cold morning in the UK, it’s a shock to the system as I land in 38C heat and a city that even at 2am is busy and bustling. A drive across the creek to the historic Al Seef area transports me to some welcome tranquillity.
We are greeted at the Al Seef Heritage Hotel by Hilton with a cool glass of pomegranate juice before a golf buggy speeds us to our rooms in a low, flat-roofed building, complete with veranda offering stunning views of the lights and city skyline on the other side of the water.
Tastes, sights, sounds of old Dubai
I’ll never say no to walking in the footsteps of Beyonce. The next morning, I follow her lead by visiting the Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum Centre for Cultural Understanding (SMCCU) in one of the oldest areas of Dubai for a feast of both food and culture.
Over a brunch which includes a chicken biryani, rice, bread and small round donuts covered in date syrup, guide Noora Al Marzooqi explains traditional hospitality in Dubai.
Noora describes the layout of the old house and how the rooms were once used for living and hosting. She reveals that being served a small cup of coffee illustrates affection for guests – implying the hosts want you to stay with them for longer.
No questions are off limits, from clothes to traditions to headwear, as she patiently explains how local garments protect Emiratis from the searing heat while working outside.
Exploring the souks
Dubai’s oldest network of souks in the Al Khor area are another evocative way to feel the soul of the city. I find vendors selling everything from spices to gold to flowers, clothes, perfumes and many varieties of food lining the narrow streets.
Ketki from Frying Pan Adventures describes the areas as the arteries of the city, as she brings us to a number of the most popular food outlets. These include the Al Shaiba Bakery, where despite the heat, Afghan bread is baked day and night for one of the tastiest and least expensive snacks in the city. Still hot from the oven, honey is soon dripping down my fingers as I bite into the cheese and honey bread, and sip on some hot sweet tea.
Part of the tour includes a short boat transfer across the creek to another section of souks, where a Hindu influence is evidenced with bright colours and fresh flowers.
Our tour concludes at the Al Khayma Heritage Restaurant, where the owners pride themselves on the traditional decor and local favourites such as a mouthwatering lamb biryani served on a low table.
A desert safari
One of the most magical experiences of my trip is a Heritage Safari by vintage Land Rover. The company, Platinum Heritage, ensures we are well prepared, wrapping our heads with scarves to protect from the sun as we set off in vintage Land Rovers into sands as far as the eye can see.
Conservation guide Amjad Mehmood clearly has a passion for the landscape and wildlife, explaining conservation efforts, and slowing down to let us get a sight of oryx and the more elusive little sand lizards, which scuttle about the dunes.
As the sun starts to set, we arrive for a falcon display before going on to a beautifully set up camp for a feast under the stars. After a camel ride, we enjoy a musical performance and lie on carpets and low sofas for a guided star gazing session with shisha pipes.
Luxury in the modern city
It’s impossible to visit Dubai and not marvel at the aspects that have made the city world famous. Alongside the Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest building, is the Frame, an audaciously huge gold frame stretching into the sky. It has the added bonus of an exhibition charting the city’s rapid transformation from the mid-20th century to current day. An elevator zooms up the 48-floor structure in just 75 seconds for panoramic views across the city.
Yacht tours from Dubai Marina offer another view of the city, passing towering sky scrapers at various stages of construction.
But no trip to Dubai is complete without visiting the famous Palm Jumeirah where some of the most luxurious hotels in the world are located, and the seven-star Burj Al Arab, which is close-by.
Yes, you can save and splurge on an extravagant visit, but you can also have an authentic experience without breaking the bank.
How to plan your trip
Rooms at the Al Seef Heritage Hotel (hilton.com) start from 845 AED (£176) with breakfast.
For more information, go to visitdubai.com.
