We might think life is much better in a world of mod cons and digital devices, but it’s always humbling to learn that ancient technologies were surprisingly advanced.
I discover this first-hand on a visit to the ancient city of Side, on the Turkish Riviera, about an hour’s drive from capital Antalya.
Dated back to the 7th century BC, ruins include a Roman forum, theatre and a reconstructed Greek fountain using genius tech to help bring water into the city from the mountains.
While 70% of the city remains covered, there’s plenty to marvel at – including some novel pieces of infrastructure which could benefit modern street planning. By building pipes into the walls instead of under the street, Romans avoided having to close off areas if anything went wrong, a far-too familiar sight nowadays.
It might have been built 2,000 years ago, but according to my guide, Ismet, the ancient drainage system still works just fine, passing a test earlier this year with flying colours after heavy rain.
“This is the centre of the world,” Ismet proclaims proudly, referring to more than just the site’s significance as a key nexus of historical trading routes. Gazing out to sea below blazing sunshine, modern bars, restaurants and shops breathe new life into ancient parts of the city.
I’m one of the many tourists wising up to what’s on offer along the Turkish Riviera. Around four hours flight from London, it’s a place where there are 320 days of sun a year, according to Ismet.
“Autumn is the best season,” he says, when daytime temperatures hover around 27 C and the sea is still blissfully warm. Plus, in October and November, you don’t have the same crowds as you would in summer.
I’m staying a five-minute drive away from Side, in a resort called Bijal. The Turkish Riviera might have a reputation for cheap and cheerful package holidays, but Bijal wants to change that and bring a bit of Maldives-inspired luxury to the coastline.
In fact, the owners – the Gürok Group – are also responsible for the Joali and Joali Being resorts in the Maldives. Similarly tropical and chic influences are felt in their Turkey outpost, which officially opened in spring last year.
Bijal feels delightfully quiet and serene compared to the hubbub outside its walls. All 19 villas have a private pool so you really don’t have to encounter anyone else if you don’t want to. And while I’ve taken the time to marvel at ancient technology, I can’t help but still appreciate the perks of modern life at Bijal – like heated pools and the high-tech gym.
Art classes are one of several on-site activities designed to lure guests out of their villas. Over the course of three sessions, London-based painter and ceramicist Venetia Berry helps my creative juices flow through pottery and painting classes, with easels set up overlooking the beach and sea.
I’m not very artistically talented, but luckily it’s a low-pressure situation and Venetia teaches a more surreal style, which really gives a newbie like me a lot of wiggle room.
“It’s very meditative,” says Venetia. “You’re looking at a beautiful view and painting, and not thinking about your phone or what meetings you have planned.”
She’s right. Sometimes we really need to be forced to put down our smartphones to realise how glorious it is to be disconnected.
“People will often leave school and not paint for 10, 15, 20 years and that inner child is still there,” adds Venetia.
Staff at Bijal have reported that guests who were previously art novices – like myself – have taken a class on a whim and returned home to enrol in courses.
When not painting, I spend time swapping between my private pool and the sandy beach – just a five-minute walk or two-minute cycle away from the villas, complete with a beach club and cabanas to stretch out in. Table tennis tables, dartboards, chessboards and various games prevent me from wasting hours doomscrolling on my phone.
In just a few days, I come to realise the Turkish Riviera is every bit as appealing as the Maldives – minus the 10-plus hour journey and jet lag. And who knows, maybe I’ll even have to look into some painting classes myself to keep the holiday going for months to come.
How to plan your trip
Stays from €900 (£750) per night for a one-bedroom villa on B&B basis (two sharing). Visit bijal.com.tr.
