Lazing on a sun lounger, listening to the sound of European dance music playing faintly in the distance, I gaze at yachts passing by in the marina.
Metres away, my hotel – the five-star Lazure Hotel and Marina – is made up of a renovated 18th century Venetian building, replete with a Catholic chapel next to the reception, as well as a new building with large modern rooms.
It’s the height of luxury, the sort of setting I’d imagine in St Tropez or Monaco. But with rooms starting from €135 (£115) per night, it’s a fraction of the price.
An undervalued beauty of the Adriatic, long passed over in favour of neighbouring Croatia, Montenegro finally seems to be having its moment. Recognising a growth in popularity for a destination that’s only a three-hour flight from the UK yet still largely undiscovered, easyJet recently added more London departures to their schedule.
Just 12 miles from Tivat airport, at the entrance to the UNESCO-listed Bay of Kotor, the Lazure in Herceg Novi is the ideal base to explore a country that has all the best attributes of the Med but without the crowds (I barely hear another British accent during my stay).
You could while away a week at the hotel with ease. It has two restaurants: Augusto Terrace for casual dining, and Rosemarine, which serves a fusion of Asian and Mediterranean food for a higher price.
There is a patchwork aspect to Montenegrin cuisine. By the coast, restaurants serve catch of the day or shellfish platters, while further inland meat and potatoes are typically on the menu. Locals are deadly serious when they insist that their national dish is a plate of ham and cheese.
On my first night, I eat at Konoba Skver. Owned by a fisherman, I’m told it’s the finest restaurant for Montenegrin cuisine in Herceg Novi. I opt for the filet mignon, but when I see my companion’s plate of scallop risotto, I immediately regret not going for seafood.
Despite being more of a relaxed family destination, Herceg Novi has a small, but lively, nightlife. With views out across the bay, and no ascertainable closing time, Tondo turns out to be one of the best nightclubs I’ve ever been to. A white wine spritzer sets you back £2.50, while a local beer, referred to as “domestic”, is just £1.50. The crowd is largely local, with a few Serbians thrown in for good measure.
But it’s worth exploring further afield too. Durmitor National Park is three hours by bus from Herceg Novi, and although the twists and turns make difficult work for the stomachs of a man who has been drinking brandy until the wee hours, the views more than make up for it. We spin around narrow cliff roads overlooking lush green mountains as we traverse the breadth of the country.
Part of the Dinaric Alps, Durmitor’s highest peak reaches 2,523 metres. However, it’s the famous black lake – Crno Jezero – that I’m interested in. It takes it’s dark shade from the pine forest its surrounded by, the trees casting a reflecton on the water. In the spring, a waterfall feeds glacial water from the Alps into the lake, but in the height of summer the black lake is somewhat diminished in size.
I take in its stunning beauty on an hour-long hike around the lake’s shore. Just as my hike is coming to an end, a dark cloud gathers over the valley. A few minutes later the downpour begins. As we take shelter in the local cafe, spirits are high, in no small part thanks to the liberal pours of brandy doled out by the staff.
Hungry after my hike, I stop off at the Organic Family Farm in Zabljak. Large bowls of carrot and noodle soup are spread out on a table in the farmhouse, followed by plates of roast potatoes and lamb. I wash the meal down with a large glass of blueberry juice, a local delicacy.
It’s hard to believe just hours ago I was eating breakfast overlooking the crystal clear blue sea. But that’s the magic of Montenegro, where there are enriching new discoveries to be made at every turn – without ever spending a fortune.
How to plan your trip
easyJet flies from Luton to Tivat twice a week with prices starting from £25.99 one way per person.
easyJet Holidays (easyjet.com/en/holidays) offers a three-night B&B stay at Lazure Hotel and Marina for £478 per person, including 23kg of luggage each, flights and transfers from London Luton on October 18.
