The V&A is launching a new exhibition that explore the life and career of supermodel Naomi Campbell.
With a selection of her archival pieces, the exhibit, NAOMI, goes beyond fashion, diving deeper into Campbell’s layered career, activism and cultural reach.
Open to the public from June 22, it provokes impressive, sensitive and evocative stages of Campbell’s life.
To celebrate, here are some of those moments embodied in iconic outfits, peeling back the layers of her life in looks.
1) Vivienne Westwood tartan suit
Meeting on a Los Angeles photoshoot in 1992, Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss were among the founders of the Nineties supermodels. Campbell’s outfit pictured at the end of London Fashion Week perfectly encapsulated how many layers there were to come of the young model.
Against Moss’ fairly reserved monochromatic look, Campbell’s overlapping tartan suit paired with ultramarine accessories and a hot pink feather boa were emblematic of the 23-year-old’s rebellious and carefree spirit.
2) Newspaper and dollar bills dress
From then on, there was no stripping back for Campbell. The following year she modelled a wedding dress made entirely of newspapers and dollar bills at the Harvey Nichols and Perrier New Generation Designers Show.
Perhaps the perfect choice for the rising star who was making leaps and bounds in her career whilst having a tumultuous relationship with the press. The abundance of ruffled newspapers were symbolic of how the mainstream press disguised what the model felt was the real Naomi.
3) Hair flick and fringe
Alongside copious clothes – wigs and extensions have been a part of Campbell’s canon throughout her career. Routinely shifting her image required flexibility; thus layering extensions over wigs and intense styling contributed to bald patches.
Telling the Evening Standard in 2017, “I lost a lot of [my hair] with extensions,” she revealed, “I am more careful and do things differently.” Campbell dismissed the idea of black hair as a political issue, noting that “everybody in the world wears wigs… I do whatever the job calls for”. Campbell’s persevering attitude unveiled a deep insight into the model’s ambition.
4) Frills and ruffles
Layering doesn’t mean covering up. In 2004, Naomi sported a sheer tiered mini dress at the Louis Vuitton party for the brand’s fall/winter collection. The bohemian ruffles and natural hair evoked a more laid-back countenance in Campbell. The neutral colour palette, eclectic accessories and sheer bodice foreshadow some of the model’s relaxed future looks.
5) Deconstructing her image
The year 2017 saw Campbell taking a more structured and straightforward approach. Angularly layering suit trousers, skirts and formal lapels, this look symbolises Campbell’s ability to do it all.
Integrating bold accessories in the form of fishnet tights and a bejewelled nose ring epitomised Campbell’s chameleon-like character. Whilst the layering seemed disjointed, she held it all together with her poised persona.
6) Remembering her roots
Whilst mainly sporting simple silhouettes and muted hues, Campbell reminded the world that she is never predictable at the 2019 MET Gala. The model harked back to her feather boa frolics with this pale pink Valentino gown – a piece featured in the coming exhibition.
Themed ‘Camp’ Campbell imbued the freedom to be oneself and bearing all through this sheerly layered look. Offering strength in the form of a bold feathered cape and fragility through lace tights, Campbell’s look was unapologetically authentic, revealing her true disposition.
7) Sleek and simple with Dolce and Gabbana
As Campbell enters her fifth decade, the model is leaning into bearing all. When walking for Dolce Gabbana FW 2024 show, she once again sported an all black outfit which experimented with textures and opacity through its use of lace, silk and mesh.
Using the most delicate of fabrics, this look evoked a vulnerability in Campbell, as the mourning veil almost disguised her face of true emotion. It seems the supermodel has become more comfortable in simple silhouettes and monochrome palettes, as she continues to reveal more of herself, whilst always leaving a protective facade: in this case, one of a mesh veil.
