ST PATRICK’S Day is that most classic of Irish things – a day laced with identity crises. A typical Paddy’s Day scene in any town or city may see this festival of Irishness celebrated by people wearing Scottish football tops and drinking Danish beer, all in honour of some kid who, according to which theory you buy into, was brought over here from Wales, France or some obscure part of Roman Britain.
Another import which has come to assume an innately Irish image is stout. Porter was a quintessentially English drink in the 19th century which was first brewed in Ireland by Arthur Guinness. A drink enjoyed by river porters in London, a more robust version was branded stout porter, shortened to stout, and so began the birth of an iconic brand at St James’ Gate.
Now the colour black is a serious challenger to green as the official colour of St Patrick’s Day. Arthur Guinness may have been the first, but the recent craft beer explosion has seen a wide range of porters and stouts produced by small breweries across Ireland. Try this flight of five:
:: Hilden’s Irish Stout from the Hilden Brewery in Lisburn is a classic straight down the line dry Irish stout. It’s full bodied with plenty of roastiness and dry, almost smokey finish. A very accessible stout for the novice.
:: Brewed in the Whitewater Brewery in Kilkeel, Co Down, Belfast Black can be found in bottles or on draught – it's smooth and sweet with a rich and prolonged chocolatey finish.
:: O’Hara’s Brewery in Carlow is one of Ireland's most prolific and experimental craft brewers. Their Leann Folláin, Irish for ‘wholesome stout’, is another complex offering. Dark chocolate and vanilla flavours are the prelude to a refreshing, bitter hoppy finish. One which certainly packs a punch.
:: Yannaroddy Porter, brewed by Kinnegar in Co Donegal, is a complex porter. Smooth and roasty to begin, the hint of coconut gives it a creamy mouthfeel and it has a delicate hoppy finish.
:: Seven Sisters Treacle Oat Stout is a bold concotion by the Pokertree Brewing Company in Carrickmore, Co Tyrone. The treacle adds a sweet and creamy feel with strong coffee, chocolate and liquorice flavours.
