Pyke 'n’ Pommes
57 Strand Road
Derry
0774 3892 108
pykenpommes.ie
AMBITION isn’t something Kevin Pyke lacks. He started Pyke’n’Pommes six years ago, operating from a food truck by the River Foyle, as well as various other venues around the country. Two years later, that riverside site became a permanent location, in the form of a shipping container kitted out with a kitchen and hatch.
Not satisfied with the outdoor seating, he got hold of an old double decker bus, sorted some heating and a sound system, and added tables and chairs for 60.
A successful business, a reputation for serving possibly the best burgers in the city, satisfied customers returning again and again… most people would be content to call it a day there. Not Kevin Pyke. His double decker may not move, but his drive has taken him down the Strand Road, to number 57, a proper, indoor restaurant, with walls and a roof and everything.
Of course, he may just be fuelled by a desire not to spend his working life standing at a hole in a shipping container while north-west Ireland’s weather chucks whatever it fancies at him. But our visit there suggests there’s more to it than that. This is a chef who wants to do more than cook burgers – albeit terrific ones – in an oversized tin can.
While the regular menu features all the old favourites from the food truck, it is the specials board which shows a desire to create something interesting, exciting, and different. And delicious.
The five of us, toddler included, started by sharing barbecued watermelon and roasted corn on the cob. The watermelon was an dazzling blend of textures and flavours. Charred on the outside, giving it a nice bitterness, it was fresh and juicy, with added sweetness from the agave and heat from the chilli. The sugary agave was counterbalanced by the sharp lime and perky mint.
With the feta giving depth and saltiness, the overall effect was absolutely fantastic.
Almost as good, in its own way, was the corn. The cob was rolled in a panko and Parmesan crumb, salty and crunchy, and there was a deep and smoky heat from the chipotle to give a new dimension to the sweet corn.
We returned briefly to the regular menu for a couple of the mains – a meaty, juicy burger, full of flavour, right at home in a soft barmcake, and beautifully crisp and chilli-hot squid with a fantastic slaw and a seriously good peanut sauce.
The old ones are so often the best, but, good as they were, the burger and squid had to take a backseat to the specials. The roasted cauliflower was a really interesting dish. It looked terrific, with gleaming red pomegranate seeds dancing among a scattering of torn green leaves, the cauliflower sitting beneath the tahini, pink from the paprika. The vegetable was beautifully cooked, with just the right amount of crunch. My only criticism would be that the dish was a touch too bitter for my liking.
The star of the whole show was the barbecued sea bream. This was simply faultless. Served whole, head to tail, and on the bone, it didn’t look any too pleased to see us, but we almost gave it a round of applause when it arrived, so good did it look, sitting on and beneath the sparkling red of the pico de gallo and vivid green of the salsa verde.
It tasted even better than it looked. The pure white, soft flesh came off the bone with a glance from the knife, and tasted delicate, fresh, and light. Best of all, though, was the flank of the fish sitting directly on the plate, which had soaked up all the amazing flavours of the salsas. Unbeatable.
The food here is great, and the place, featuring the smart designs of Donal O’Doherty and UV Arts, has a cracking atmosphere. I don’t think anyone could fail to be bowled over by Pyke ‘n’ Pommes’ move indoors. Step inside, love, and stay.
THE BILL
Barbecued watermelon, agave and chilli syrup, feta, mint, lime £7
Roasted corn on the cob, chipotle crema, panko, Parmesan £5
Barbecued whole sea bream, pico de gallo, salsa verde, lime £10
Legenderry burger, fries £10.50
Crispy squid, fries £9.50
Roasted cauliflower, tahini, smoked paprika dressing, harissa yoghurt, toasted almonds, herbs £8
Children’s burger, fries £5
Pina colada ice cream £3
Diet Coke £2.80
Sparkling water £1.80
Total: £62.60
